Post Script: Encounters and Stories
Up from the Deep, while mainly an exploration of architecture and history, is very much an expression of my love for San Francisco’s central city, and as such must include some of the people whose paths have crossed mine. Each of them has, in one way or another, added depth and meaning to my life. They, and many others like them, have been my source of inspiration for this project. Through them shines the soul of the central city.
Still Bill

LOCATION: FIFTH and BRYANT
The shadows had grown long and fog was starting to blow in from the ocean as I walked down Sixth Street, on my way home after a day of taking pictures in my old neighborhood. Passing by the rotting hulk of the Hugo Hotel, I overtook another pedestrian, a man in his fifties or sixties with a backpack, carrying a duffel bag. A few seconds later, I heard him calling out, “Hello? Hello?”
I turned and walked back to see what he wanted. After inquiring about my well-being, he said, “I’m still Bill.”
“Still Bill?” I didn’t know what else to say. The ghost of a sad, little smile crinkled the corners of his eyes.
I’m still Bill, always was, always will.
Had a wife named Lucille, had us a home down in Mobile.
Come the war in Vietnam, they sent me off and made me kill.
Come back a broke-up man, weren’t no more home, no more Lucille.
She’d gone and left me, but I’m still Bill.
His words were like a window to his soul. Fascinated, wanting to know more, I offered to carry his bag while we walked. He was looking for a shelter someone had told him was nearby, and I said I would show him the way there. Bill had been drinking and was unsteady on his feet, obliging us to stop several times as I helped him regain his balance. I put his arm through mine when we crossed the street, for traffic was heavy and I feared he would stumble into the path of a speeding car. As we walked, sharing our stories along the way, I was touched by Bill’s inner light and faith, undimmed despite all that had happened to him.
Upon arriving at the shelter, I got Bill’s permission to photograph him. As I was setting up the shot, we were approached by a smiling woman, a Native American, who greeted us with an unaffected ebullience and goodwill so contagious that the three of us were soon talking and laughing together like old friends. When I asked if she would like to be photographed with Bill, she answered by putting her arm around him in such a familiar, loving way that I had to wipe my eyes to see through the camera’s viewfinder. This photograph is the best of several that I took.
Painting the Town

LOCATION: SEVENTH and MISSION
On a late winter afternoon in 2005, while on one of my South of Market rambles, I ran into Anthony Holdsworth, who was working on his painting of the new Federal Office Building and the historic Federal Courthouse on Seventh Street. I had seen him working there before, but never had time to stop, so I was pleased to at last have the opportunity to meet him. Anthony was kind enough to let me photograph him as we chatted. I will let his own words speak for what he does:
I generally work on location in the city. The urban landscape is an accurate and disquieting testament to our common condition. I encounter it first-hand in the hope of conveying its original intensity. Though sometimes devoid of people these ‘cityscapes’ emerge from my interaction with passersby and inhabitants at each site.
To learn more about this man and his remarkable work, I highly recommend a visit to his website, Anthony Holdsworth: Dispatches from the Street.
In Praise of a Hero*

JIM AYERS – LAWRENCE HOTEL
I could talk for a long time about Jim Ayers. His life story is not only remarkable, it is truly inspiring and could have been written by John Steinbeck, or Mark Twain. H.L. Mencken would have loved him. As I have only two minutes to speak, I’ll give you instead the simple, unadorned reasons that Jim is so highly deserving of this award, which I am enormously pleased to be presenting to him.
Integrity: Jim is the living, breathing definition. He is, without question, the most trusted person in his community. Jim may be a man of few words, but you can be certain that what he says will always be the truth. Blunt, gruff and unpolished, Jim is also one of the most lovable persons I have ever known, and he has a heart to match. A more compassionate man you will not find. Best of all, Jim shares these virtues with his community.
During the eleven years that he worked there, Jim made Grady’s a comfortable and safe haven for the many seniors who live on Sixth Street. It was, in fact, the only place in the neighborhood where they could escape from their lonely, cramped hotel rooms to socialize, have their morning coffee and read the paper. For Jim, tending bar was entirely secondary to providing for the social needs of Sixth Street’s seniors.
Jim has fought tirelessly and single-handedly for the rights and welfare of the tenants of the Lawrence Hotel, where he has lived for the past fourteen years.
Finally, after years of thankless, solitary struggle at City Hall and in court, and in the face of intimidation, property damage and physical threats, Jim is winning the battle to force Club Six, the bane of Sixth Street residents since it opened, to comply with noise and public nuisance laws.
No one has done more for his community than Jim Ayers, a man I am proud to call my friend.
*The text is a speech that I gave when presenting Jim with a Community Leadership Award in May 2007.
What is Important, What is Not

LOCATION: UNITED NATIONS PLAZA, CIVIC CENTER
Sunsets in San Francisco are often splendorous, even under cloudless skies. I photographed this one on a cold October evening, on my way to visit a friend. Most people had already returned from work to their homes. The UN Plaza, normally bustling with activity, was a barren red-brick plain, windswept and unwelcoming. The sun’s coronal fire had made the air luminous, bathing the surrounding architecture in a soft lambency and casting into stark relief the equestrian statue of a triumphant Simon Bolivar. Swallowed up by this grandeur were two figures at the statue’s base, a man and a woman, homeless, heedless of one another, preparing for the long, dark night ahead.
The man moved quickly, clothing himself against the cold. As he stalked away toward the Tenderloin, I watched the woman, who sat motionless, her eyes fixed on something I could not see. I wondered where she would go after nightfall; she seemed so utterly isolated and alone, a mote in the sunset. Before moving on, I approached her and asked if she was all right. My query must have startled her, for when she looked up to see who I was, I saw fear and confusion in her eyes. I apologized for intruding, but as I started to walk away, I heard a little voice say, “I’m okay.”
When I stopped to look back at her, she averted her eyes. I caught the glimmer of a fleeting smile as she said, very quietly, “Thank you for asking.”
I left her then, for there was nothing more I could do, but I left with the memory of her smile.
Temple of the Heart’s Imagination

SERGE ECHEVERRIA – SPAULDING HOTEL
I occasionally meet with Serge, my remarkable South American friend, to catch up on what’s happened in his life. It has been our habit to meet at a coffee house so that we can imbibe hot chocolate as we talk, a ritual we have shared since the beginning of our friendship. We first met in the Tenderloin at a campaign kickoff party for our district supervisor in 2002. Refreshments at the party included several huge chocolate flat cakes, of which I had two large pieces. A tall, slender gentleman in his sixties or seventies, with bright, deep-set eyes and aristocratic features, helped himself to some cake and sat down next to me. I made some comment about my love of chocolate, to which he replied that the sharing of a hot cacao beverage, while seated under a cacao tree, was central to the Toltecs’ concept of friendship. I remembered reading something about the Toltecs in one of my boyhood books, Indians of the Americas, but whatever I learned had been lost in time. Serge shared his extensive knowledge with me, revealing that he had even translated some of the Toltecs’ poetry. The party receded into background noise as we conversed, and thus our friendship was begun.
Seated outside at a little coffee house on Geary Street, waiting for Serge and watching the flow of humanity on the sidewalks before me, I began to reflect on the transient nature of life and was inspired to take the following photograph. The title of the photograph is “Just Passing Through.” The verse is a Toltec poem, translated through the Spanish by Serge.

We have come to dream.
Suddenly we come out of the dream. . . .
And we have only come to dream.
It is not true, it is not true that we have come
to live upon this earth.
Our lives are as the grass in spring.
Our hearts give birth to flowers from our flesh
and make them germinate.
Some open their corollas, others fade.
You have lived your songs, opened your flowers,
lived your lives!
Copyright © 2008, Mark Ellinger
Except where otherwise indicated,
the images at this site are licensed under a
Creative Commons BY-NC-ND 3.0 Unported License




lovely story, lovely photograph, and the Hugo Hotel is ultra kewl
Thank you, my dear. Glad you enjoyed it. And yes, the Hugo is most remarkable. A shame it won’t be around much longer.
I have absolutely fallen in love with that B&W photo. That medium can be fairly stark (which I adore) but the warmth in that photo…
I love this new part of your blog. Are you going to be telling more stories? I know the photography are stories in their own, but it is so cool to read the stories behind the stories, if you know what I mean.
And thank you!
More stories are forthcoming, Mandy. I’ve already posted the photo for the next story, but it may be a day or two before the story appears.
Your comment about the photo means a lot to me, as I put a lot of work into making it what it is.
Thank you, too, both for the inspiration, and for all your support.
This is a wonderful new addition to your blog and I know we are all looking forward to the next installment.
Thank you — me, too! As I am playing this entirely by ear, as it were, the way in which these stories will unfold is a sort of mystery to me as well.
Kindness amongst strangers.
I have wondered a lot about God this is. What that concept is. Whether there is an external God. Whether God created us, or whether we created God after our own image.
After spending a difficult week in and out of refugee camps and wondering about life there is only this conclusion. That God can be love, but only in the love we show our fellow human beings, and the other living things we share our planet with. That God can be love in action. Very little else matters.
Loved that story.
Thanks, Mandy.
Sometimes, all that is necessary to shake us out of our comfortable lethargy is to, just for a moment, put ourselves in the other person’s shoes.
Funny, we went out for a drive today with an old friend and I just noticed the Hugo Hotel when he was dropping us back home in the TL…
I just wanted to say I really like this new addition to your site.
I hadn’t been here in a while, and I’m glad to come back and find this. I walk through the Tenderloin everyday and often wish I had a better camera.
Your blog is a nice reminder that there is beauty here too, often in faces that most people don’t even see.
Thank you, vexkitten. I love to hear from people who live in the Tenderloin or anywhere else in the central city. I’m going to try to add a new story every few days, so keep checking back.
Really love that you came back to edit and tighten this story. It shows in the writing. Really crisp. Beautiful.
Thanks, Mandy. Actually, I’ve constantly been editing and revising all of the Hotel Project text since I first started writing it, but you were fortunate enough to miss out on what it was like for the first few years. I’ve been able to much more quickly hone the stories in this new chapter as a result of what I’ve learned over five years of working on this project, though I still would be unable to tell you the difference between a preposition and a participle!
Thank you for all your feedback, and please believe me when I tell you it is deeply appreciated.
I have only just begun to explore your website, but already have fallen in love with your insights, amazing photographs, and stories. I had a project last year mapping historical California Japantowns, many of which were in similar parts of town. My partner’s Japanese American grandparents ran a hotel in Stockton half a century ago. She has a tender place for people in the TL, Bayview, Potrero. We both appreciate folks like you who help advocate for preserving and improving conditions for people who live in these essential neighborhoods, and simply telling the stories. Thanks!
Hi Ben. I love hearing from people who know about hotel life from personal experience. I just paid a quick visit to your site, Japantown Atlas, and was impressed with how extensive and detailed it is. It looks like a fantastic resource, and I’ll be returning to it soon.
I remember San Francisco’s Japantown before it was decimated by the redevelopment agency; I used to go there a lot. It was filled with the most wonderful little restaurants, hardware stores and other small businesses and was one of my favorite places in which to take walks.
Please stay in touch!
I enjoyed your stories – they add so much to the picture of the person without which we can only guess at their lives. This MUST be an essential part of your book. I’m sure it will do well, there are so many that share your love of the city.
Carol
I am so pleased you liked the stories, Carol. Thank you for your words of encouragement.
Hi Mark,
Extremely good chance meeting with you today. I have looked over your website’s pictures and I was surprised to see the same things that you have photographed, too as being very important.
I also want to say that Urban Solutions has come around in the final stretch on this project and become very active and helpful. So no complaints on my part with working with them. Please tell others that Aaron Burke at Urban Solutions is an ally of what I’m trying to accomplish.
I look forward to a total immersion exhibit of your work at Rancho Parnassus. Take your time, there is no rush, collect your thoughts.
I was surprised to read on your website that you have noticed that “most people never look up”.
The intention of my design is to make people Look Up. To look up for positive, non-exploitive, and optimistic reasons. Looking up from the perspective of the sidewalk is what our cities have lost — Las Vegas being the last urban vestige to so manipulatively exploit this basic human need.
I have a picture to send you about “a 6th Street moment” taken in despair on the the hour of the solstice, 2007. Please tell me where to send it to, no copyright restrictions. This is the picture that has kept me going through many setbacks. It is of the Seagull of 6th Street and Minna that cawed at the celestial moment I was ready to call it quits on this project.
I believe 6th Street has more than a few angels watching over it.
Best regards,
- Andy Harris
Andy, thanks for dropping in on my website. It was great talking with you today.
Andy Harris is the proprietor of the soon-to-open 6th Street bistro and gallery, Rancho Parnassus, on the corner of 6th & Minna. Andy had the incredible stamina to survive two years(!) of roadblocks and general inertia from DBI, DPH, etc. He wants his new establishment (the inside of which I saw today and which, even unfinished, is gorgeous) to be a comfortable meeting place for everyone, especially for those who live and work on 6th Street.
Be on the lookout for an announcement of the grand opening of Rancho Parnassus on this website!
Thank you for sharing your vision….I have always been curious about you after reading your posts on red book…..I just managed to buy a computer, just came off a pretty hard run, pulling myself together.
I am familiar with this world….I intend to keep looking…..
Swan
Thank you for writing, Swan, and my best wishes to you for the future. I would really appreciate it if you told me what it was you found on Red Book that linked you to my site, since I have never made any posts on Red Book.
I lived at the Dahlia Hotel ( 74 Turk – the Tenderloin) when I was a telegram bike messenger in the financial district( 1968-69). My buddy and co worker Robert Drake told me about the Dahlia.
Neil Brown Lawrence, KS
How cool that you were a bicycle telegram messenger! San Francisco was a very different world in the late ’60s, wasn’t it?
I stayed at the Dahlia Hotel until the fall of ‘69 when I was ordered to report for work at a Boys Home in Racine Wis. I was a consciencious objector during the Vietnam War and was required to do two years of alternate or community service. My parents were living in North Berkeley then. That summer was pretty exciting across the Bay where a man on the moon seemed like no big deal compared to Berkeley’s turmoil over People’s Park. Neil
Neil m’dear: Quite a dismal time for you as I remember. You found a job delivering telegrams on a bicycle in downtown San Francisco and would shout something in Portuguese (I forgot what) as you handed them over to the recipients.
Mamai
Great story, Louise. I wish you could remember what it was that Neil shouted at people to whom he served telegrams!
I love, love, love your blog. I’ve read every word and savored every image. I studied architecture in college, but never got an education like this. What you have created is truly remarkable; it truly begets community remembrance through involvement. I will be visiting often, and I hope that one day, someday I’ll have something to contribute.
You have certainly contributed a great deal to my happiness with your comments. “Thank you” hardly seems adequate, but believe me when I tell you it’s heartfelt.
Mark
Sleepless and found this blog at 2:00am….Familiar to me,these places,these people…..Thank you for something unexpected,reminding me of where I have been.
Thanks for letting me know, Swan.
I like your blog.
Observe-SF which includes a group of small theaters which are being squeezed out of SOMA is working on a plan for the
Mid-Market Office and Nightlife District.
I would very much appreciate your comments and suggestions.
Thanks,
Tony King
http://www.observe-sf.com
P.S. Check out Mid-August on the site for updates
This is THEE CITY as I know it…..I have had to leave yet again as my habit was getting the best of me….I knew I would end on the street again and although I love the street and its people it is a hard ride and I don’t want to do it again, although I never say never,not anymore…..I have exerienced love and compassion out there but I have also experienced what desperation and addiction can drive people to…Thank you for opening the window on part of my life,I dread it,I crave it….
Your work has captured so much that is part of me…In a way I wish I could express but cant……In recovery,barely…..
Thank youXXOO
SW@N MSC
Thank you, Sw@n, for letting me know that my work has touched you.
My best wishes to you for your recovery.
Mark